Terminal position guide: terminal positions are described like a clock face when looking directly at the terminal end of the coil as shown in the image diagram.
The resistance values (if shown above) are a guide for this grouped replacement family and may not be the exact factory specification for every OEM number listed.
If your ignition coil has two primary wires and it is not obvious which way round these connect, please do not assume this automatically means the coil is faulty. On many coils the two primary connections are simply the two ends of the same winding, however some ignition systems are polarity sensitive, so it is always best to check against the wiring diagram or test results for your particular bike.
If you wish to test coil polarity, connect a voltmeter with the negative lead inside the spark plug cap or HT lead so it touches the metal or carbon inner, and the positive lead to a good earth point such as the engine block. Set the meter to a high voltage range and crank the engine over, there is no need to start it. A normal connection will usually show an upward movement of the needle or reading. If the reading swings the opposite way, reverse the two primary wires and test again.
Replacement ignition coils may give resistance readings that differ from genuine items or from figures shown in some manuals, and this will not always indicate a fault. When checking a coil, look for readings that are stable and repeatable. As a very general guide, primary resistance can range from approximately 0.6 to 5.0 ohms, with higher figures often found on older machines, and secondary resistance can range from approximately 6kΩ to 14kΩ, again depending on the application and whether caps are fitted. A coil is more likely to be faulty when readings are open circuit, short circuit, or vary significantly between repeated tests.
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Most parts are pattern or aftermarket although some will be genuine but are not always stated as being so.
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